I Am a Chef - New England Fish Chowder

My husband was born and raised in the mid-western state of Illinois.  He grew up on meat and potatoes and his idea of a low meat diet is an 16 ounce steak. Then, upon graduation from Macomb High School, this farm boy took himself to the halls of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and spent the next 12 years introducing New England cuisine to his palate.  When he and I began to share meals together, about 13 years ago, he would regale me with memories of a real New England Chowder.  He insisted that the bowls placed before us at various California restaurants were sad imitations...they were "too thick," had "too much celery," "should never have corn!"  And his eyes would glaze over and a smile would grace his face as he retreated into his memories of past meals in New England.

In 2008 we returned to MIT's ivy covered walls for his 50th reunion

Jay in his Official MIT 50 year Alumni Red Jacket

and while on the East Coast traveled through a number of the New England states.  We stopped at many seafood restaurants in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine.  Jay's favorite dish was not clam chowder, but fish chowder which he ate whenever he had the chance!

Jay eating Chowder at Gloucester, MA

The last stop we made as we headed back to the Boston airport was to Old Sturbridge Village. It was a delight to wander through this living museum.

Sturbridge Village, MA

In the gift shop on the way out I discovered this cookbook

and inside was a recipe for Fish Chowder.  When I showed it to Jay he recalled that the first time he had fish chowder was on a schooner, so this had to be right!  I talked with the woman working in the shop and she told me all her tricks for making the perfect fish chowder so armed with the book and her tips I attempted the chowder once we got home.  In the end, my fish chowder recipe is a blend of the Windjammer Cookbook recipe and an Oyster House Clam Chowder recipe.

Some personal notes regarding this recipe:

• Salt pork is essential to be authentic (per the lady in Sturbridge Village), though some people may opt to use bacon.  
• This broth is thin, the way Jay likes it.  Some people choose to prepare a roux of butter and flour as a thickener.  Others will opt to sprinkle in some instant mashed potatoes.  
• This can become a "Seafood chowder" by adding diced fresh shrimp and scallops.  
• My stock of choice is fish stock prepared in advance using white fish heads and bones but chicken stock works well.
• A tip from the lady at Sturbridge Village...sprinkling the cut up fish with a fish seasoning and letting it sit for 5 minutes before adding it to the broth gives it a special richness.  
• I use fresh white cod that I purchase at the Farmers' Market from my fishmonger, Jun.

Jun at the Westchester Farmers' Market

Here is my recipe:

Fish Chowder

1/2 pound salt pork cut in 1/4 inch dice
4 large potatoes, diced
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 white onions, small dice
1/2 cup celery leaves, chopped
2 pounds white fish fillet (I use cod), cut in bite sized pieces and sprinkled with fish seasoning
2 cups clam juice (optional)
4 cups fish stock, water or chicken broth.
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 cups cream
1/2 cup white wine
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
salt and pepper
4 Tablespoons butter

Saute salt pork until fat is rendered, add potatoes, onions and garlic and cook gently until the onion is translucent.  (If you want a thickened broth add 4 Tablespoons of butter and 4 Tablespoons of flour and  stir to form a roux. Cook until slightly colored.)

Stir in the stock and celery leaves and simmer until potatoes are tender.  Add bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste, a sprig of thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) and Worcestershire sauce. 

Add fish pieces and simmer about 5 minutes until fish seems to be able to flake.  Add cream, wine and 4 Tablespoons of butter.

Patricia's Fish Chowder

So does the chowder pass Jay's taste test?  Well, when the soup was ready I placed the bowl in front of him.  He looked at it, he picked up his spoon and stirred it gently, he leaned over and inhaled the aroma, he scooped up a spoonful of the chowder and brought it to his lips, he placed it slowly in his mouth, he moved it about a bit and then he swallowed, he closed his eyes for a minute and then....he smiled.